The Village Hall in Eton Wick

The Eton Wick Village Hall

1905

"Now that the Commoners of Eton have given their consent, and the piece of land presented by Mr. Vaughan has been freed from Lammas rights, we are justified in hoping that the Eton Wick Institute will be built, opened, and be proving a welcome addition to the comforts of the parishioners of Eton Wick and Boveney before many more months have passed."

Eton Wick village hall, first known as 'The Institute', was opened on January 22nd 1907, the commemorative stone in the porch having been laid by Mr Vaughan on Friday November 16th 1906.

A brief ceremony attended by a gathering of parishioners and invited guests ended with the singing of '0 God our help in ages past' by the village school children.The evening entertainment on the day was given by Mr EMS Pilkington, the architect of the building, entitled 'The amusements of a London Boy' and illustrated with lantern slides.

The land was a gift from Edward Littleton Vaughan. a great benefactor to the village, known affectionately as 'Toddy' Vaughan. The purpose of the Institute was to provide recreation for men and boys and to encourage fellowship. Equipped with a billiard room, reading room and a bar selling non-alcoholic drinks with light refreshments, it quickly became a popular place replacing the old Working Men's club that had met at the Wheatbutts.

However, within the year the women and girls of the village let it be known that they were disappointed at being excluded. By December, due to the influence and kindness of Mr Vaughan, the situation was remedied and the formation of a Women's and girls club was formed. Girls over thirteen years of age could become members on payment of one penny per week and one shilling per quarter, allowing them to participate in gymnastics, dancing, sewing classes etc. Originally the upstairs room was for gymnastics with the billiard tables on the ground floor. This caused some inconvenience as the vaulting and jumping brought flakes of whitewash down from the ceiling onto the tables.

Over the years several village concert parties have performed in the hall, including a Minstrel Troop in the 1920's, and variety groups named the Shoestrings and the Unity Players post World War II.
The hall was enlarged in 1929 and further extensions were made in the post war years. During the early years of World War II the hall became the school for the evacuees billeted in Eton Wick.
Today the ground floor of the hall is used by the County library service and the Youth club, whilst the two rooms upstairs are used by village organisations for various activities.

How the hall began

1905 A meeting of intending members was held on December 22nd, in the school-room, with Mr. Vaughan in the chair. The meeting elected a Committee of twelve to hold office for the year 1906. It was agreed that five of these be ex-officio members, namely, one Eton College master, the Chairman of the Eton Wick Parish Council, the Chairman of the Boveney Parish Council, the Bailiff of the Common, and the Assistant Curate at Eton Wick.

Mr Edward Littleton Vaughan

The other seven were elected by ballot and were Messrs Burfoot senior, Long, Hammans senior, Ashman, A. Nottage, Elkins, and Blake.

 At a subsequent Committee meeting, Mr. Vaughan was elected as Chairman.

1906

The Eton Wick and Boveney Institute is on the high road towards completion and already the handsome red brick building has called forth expressions of admiration from those who have seen it.
On Friday afternoon, November 16th, the Founder laid in the porch a massive stone bearing the inscription, " The Eton Wick and Boveney Institute, Founded 1906." In a short speech Mr. Vaughan stated his desire that the Institute should prove a boon to the inhabitants of the two parishes, and after mentioning his conditions—that the management must be entirely unpolitical and undenominational—declared the stone duly and properly laid. This interesting ceremony was witnessed by most of the members of the Committee (one of whom had returned from London expressly for the purpose), by the workmen engaged upon the building, and by the Architect, Mr. Pilkington.

A vote of thanks to the generous donor was proposed by Mr. Moore and seconded by Mr. Smith, who said he felt sure that Mr. Vaughan would feel amply repaid if the institute were used and appreciated by those for whom it was intended.

oooOooo

MR. Vaughan, Chairman of the Eton Wick and Boveney Institute Committee, wishes to express opinion on two points, as to which there has been some misunderstanding.

The Institute is to be undenominational, and by undenominational the Committee mean that no account is to be taken, as to membership or in forming a Committee, or in any other Way, of anyone's denomination.

Secondly, it has been said in the Parish that the Committee opposes total abstinence. This is very far from being the case, but the Committee unanimously think that it would not be wise now to have a total abstinence society in connection with our Institute, which aims at uniting the Parish.

A brief history of Eton Wick

For hundreds of years Eton Wick of Eton Wick depended largely on Eton College and town for employment and trade. Fuel and produce was supplied to the town before the coming of Eton College in the mid-15th century, and to both town and college later. Local school boys were educated at Eton Porny School until 1939 when Slough and Eton (C of E) Secondary School in Slough was built. By the end of the 20th century, the development of Slough Trading Estate and other industries and services, and the vast improvements in transport had virtually severed this historic link.

Little more than a century ago, Eton Wick was being spoken and written of as a hamlet. Perhaps a fair description, as in 1841 there were only 62 houses in Eton Wick, and as recorded in Dr Judith Hunter's excellent book "The Story of A village: Eton Wick 1217 - 1977", this was three times the number existing 40 years earlier. These early dwellings were built on the marginally higher ground to the north of today's village; perhaps not noticeably much higher, but occupiers of those houses would testify to the importance of the extra inches during years of flood. Some villagers can still remember March 1947, when many homes were flooded, and yet the farm houses to the north, although surrounded by the flood waters, remained high and dry.

The growth of Eton Wick came about in spasmodic bursts and was always influenced and restricted by Lammas regulations and the parish boundary. The areas south and east of Eton Wick were Lammas and Common lands, just as they are today. Land to the west of Bell Lane was in the parish of Burnham and much of it belonged to the Palmer family of Dorney, or was part of Bell Farm. Bell Farm House itself lies just east of the boundary. The cottages built mainly for the farm workers, Bell Cottages and Bell Farm Cottages, were across the boundary in Burnham parish (it is said that the latter Cottages straddled the boundary line). It is likely at this time, in the mid-10th century, that the only other dwelling west of Bell Lane was the Shepherds Hut public house.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, most of Eton Wick development was along Common Road between Wheatbutts Field and Sheepcote Road, which was then only a gated muddy farm track. These early cottages had very long gardens or smallholdings, stretching in most cases from the building itself to today's main Eton Wick Road. The buildings backed onto Common Road, giving ready access to the stream and ponds, and the common, on which many inhabitants and livestock depended.  

A few exceptions, built on the main road, included the Three Horseshoes public house and a terrace of ten small dwellings called Prospect Place (built 1833) with their gardens running down to the common. By the mid-19th century, Eton Wick population had risen from 100 to 300. Numbers were to increase in the 1860s when the long gardens and other available infill sites were built on. Many of these houses can be seen along the main road today, with construction date plaques on them such as Palmer Place, St Leonard's Place, etc. By 1880 the population of Eton Wick was approximately 500, but there was now very little land available within the old village for further growth.

 The next big surge of building came in the 1880s to 1890s, west of the Parish of Eton Wick, when land formerly part of Bell Farm was made available for housing development. The residential area was known as Boveney New Town, and comprised of Alma, Inkerman and North Field Roads. It had its own parish council, and soon housed a population of 500, equalling that of Eton Wick parish. Both Parish Councils were then independent of Eton, and the two communities were conscious of their own identities, although very much inter-dependent.

Later, new organisations and infrastructures adopted the combined two-parish title; for example Eton Wick and Boveney Scouts, Eton Wick and Boveney War Memorial and Eton Wick and Boveney Institute (later re-named Eton Wick Hall). In addition to this new development north of the main Eton Wick Road, a few houses were built along the main road in the 1890s, and to the south, Sir Charles Palmer of Dorney developed a long row of terraced houses in Victoria Road.

Possibly the biggest incremental step in population came between World War II and the late 1960s, by which time the population was approaching 3000. Much of the post-war building development was carried out by the Eton Urban District Council (Eton Wick, which by now included Boveney New Town, lost its independent council in 1934). The new building covered Tilstone Field, the allotments which laid between Moore's Lane and the cattle gate to Dorney Common.  Privately owned dwellings were built on orchards and pigsties south of Victoria Road and Tilstone; older dwellings along Common and Sheepcote Roads were demolished to make way for houses and flats, bringing the population to much the same size as it is today.

An important feature of Eton Wick has always been its surrounding Common and Lammas lands, the Rights of which have been jealously guarded over the years. In 1965 these lands were registered under the Commons Registration Act and it is only with the consent of the Secretary of State for the Environment that such lands can be released for development.

Frank Bond, Eton Wick History Group

A VILLAGE IN THE SHADOW OF ETON BY FRANK BOND

A few years ago, in the course of researching a subject, a member of the Eton Wick History Group asked an Eton College Secretary what difference the College had had on the village. The reply was "None, the College has never tried to influence the village". That may well be, but having an influence and setting out to influence are two very different things. I grew up in Eton Wick during the 1920's and 30's. Like the other lads in the village, this necessitated walking through the College to the Eton Porny School in the middle of the High Street. All boys between the ages of 7 and 14 years went to Eton Porny School unless they had qualified for the Slough Grammar School or the Eton College Choir School. Most of us walked the distance of a little over one mile, three times a day. There were no school meals and we were given the one penny bus fare to get us home for dinner - we walked back and, of course, home again at 4 o'clock.

There were many large families of six or more children - in our family eight - and it seemed perfectly natural that girls when 14 years old - school leavers, should be sent into service at the College where they were required to 'live in'. In my case, I and four younger brothers were all still attending school while three older sisters and an unmarried Aunt provided our living space by working in the College. Their conditions would seem intolerable by today's measure but were certainly not unusual terms of employment at that time. In 1927 my older sister went into College service at the age of 14 years. The days started at 6 a.m. and ended at 9.30 p.m. There was no full day off duty during the school term, but once a week she was off duty between 2.30 p.m. and 10 p.m., by which time she had to be in the house again. She was off duty alternate Sundays between 2.30 p.m. and 10 p.m. The salary was £13 p.a., approximately 36p a week in present day terms. She was required to provide her own uniform of black frock with white collar and cuffs, black stockings and shoes, and a white can. When out of the College houses, servants were always obliged to wear stockings and if walking beyond the point known as the 'Burning Bush' to always wear a hat. Servants were not permitted to acknowledge the boys in the street who they daily waited upon at table.

The living space though was not our only benefit. We never wanted for cricket bats, pads, gloves, balls and even the occasional rugby ball. We also had elastic propelled planes, books in abundance and foreign stamps; these were all thrown away by the College boys as were their coloured house caps and other garments. Most local lads derived benefits in these forms, and although the pads were not always a pair, and the bats were often in need of binding, it was all of a quality that we would not otherwise have acquired. I well remember receiving a book of British Wild Birds in my Christmas stocking, and it mattered not that I guessed Santa had influence in the College. Families in Eton and Eton Wick often purchased dripping from the cooks at about fourpence a basin; this seemed a permissible perk, but it probably stopped at that for I do not remember other food handouts.

Eton Wick has always been a working class village having no big houses or a village squire to give

financial support to deserving causes; however, there was one such person in the past - Edward L. Vaughan. He generously provided a superb Village Hall with the land, promoted the early Eton Wick and Boveney Scout movement, financially supported football and cricket, the Church, the Sunday School and it outings, the Horticultural Society and some of its awards, and much more besides. Mr Vaughan, 'Toddy' as he was well known, died over 50 years ago, but for another 50 years previously he had inspired the village and left it a better place. This article is not about Eton College, but I would never agree that the village, a mile west, has not been influenced by it in these and many other ways.

Eton and Eton Wick are believed to predate the College by several hundred years. Their place names are Saxon in origin and believed to refer to the proximity of the river and its many streams creating an eyot, or island, upon which the inhabitants set up dwellings. Eton Wick is low, and being so close to the Thames very floodable throughout its history. Early settlers would obviously have built upon the marginally higher ground on the north of a stream running through the old village from west to east, and in fact farms and farm buildings still do occupy those drier positions. 

Manor Farm, together with the manor was purchased by John Penn in 1793. About this time the Crown Commissioners, also appreciable land owners, had thoughts concerning the enclosure of the Common and Lammas lands to the east and north of Eton Wick. Penn endeavoured to push an Enclosure Bill through Parliament which would, had it succeeded, left us with a very different village today. Fortunately, the Bill was defeated in 1823, and there was much celebration in Eton and Eton Wick. Nearly 200 local people had signed or marked the petition opposing the enclosure of their common usage grazing lands. Perhaps nothing is exclusively advantageous, and certainly Eton Wick now found it difficult to grow. The Commons and extensive Lammas lands could not be built upon unless there was unanimous agreement or a Parliamentary Bill, and west of the village boundary was the Parish of Burnham, which few probably thought to build upon. 

For four decades after the defeat of Penn's Bill additional homes were added by the purchase of large garden plots and houses - often terraced - were squeezed into the available space. Then, during the early 1880's, farmland to the west of Eton Wick, and in the Parish of Burnham was bought by a Mr Ayes who sold the plots, laid out roads and by the turn of the century the village had doubled its size and population.

Strictly speaking, perhaps one should say 'villages' because this growth beyond the old village boundary of Bell Lane was now to be known as 'Boveney Newtown'; it was to have its own Council and in many ways to be independent of Eton Wick. The first years of 'Newtown' as it was generally known, caused its residents to look to distant Burnham for spiritual guidance or to support their own Primitive Methodist Chapel being built. In 1892 Boveney Newtown came under the Vicar of Eton, and by special arrangement residents could now be buried in Eton Wick - not yet though would the two communities be regarded as one. 

In 1907 the great village benefactor, Edward L Vaughan, gave the land and Institute which being sited close to the border of the two communities was very appropriately named 'The Eton Wick and Boveney Institute' (now the Village Hall) - likewise the Scouts, with other organisations, and the War Memorial etc; all named themselves 'Eton Wick and Boveney'. This is no longer necessary as for over 60 years we have been one village in the same parish. Only in historic matters is there a division which occasionally one complains about. No householder west of Bell Lane (Boveney Newtown) receives any benefit from old Eton Charities, and of course really has no benefit of grazing rights on Lammas lands or Commons. This is of no consequence, however, as the days of rights and obligations associated with the said lands have for most practical purposes gone.  

People moving into Eton Wick often do so because they feel surrounded by fields and commons, and have the Thames within five minutes walk yet are still able to reach towns quickly. Without the Commons and Lammas lands so jealously guarded by earlier generations, we may perhaps be another part of Greater Slough. Other villages such as Cippenham, Chalvey, Farnham and Upton, have all lost their rural identity.

The growth of Eton Wick into Boveney Newtown, and beyond, has almost reached its limit of expansion. After World War II hundreds of houses and new streets brought many new villagers. To a large extent this was a shift of population within the Eton Parish, as many of Eton's own residents were moved into the village. Interestingly, if we look at the population nationwide in 1842 it was 5 million and is now tenfold. Reading was 19,000 and 150,000, London 1.5 million now 7.5 million; Bristol 65,000 now 440,000 - we could go on, but Eton was 3,409 and is still perhaps less than 4,000. The farms have unfortunately largely declined, and the few village ponds have vanished but there is still a feeling of being a 'Wicker' -one is still a villager!

This article was prepared by Frank Bond and presented to an Eton Wick History Group meeting in 1994.

Eton Wick: A Changing Village Before 1934

This part of the village has almost always been mainly residential, but elsewhere there 

Clifton House

were new shops and businesses being set up. One of the first additions in the twentieth century was probably the shop at Clifton House, now the post office. It has the distinction of being the first purpose-built shop in the village, and the cause of much open-eyed wonder to at least one small boy, who about 1902 watched they high sky-light going into place, and large marble slabs for counters being carried in. Before this he had only seen marble as tomb stones! The shop was 'built as a wedding present to young Mr Pratt from his father of Pratt & Sons, family grocers of Eton High Street. Unfortunately romance and business did not mix: tradition has it that the young couple were too kind-hearted so that within a few years the shop had to be sold. The next shopkeepers after this were the Harman's, after them Anderson, then Wiggington; until in 1931 the shop became Chantler's and remained so for the next forty years.

About 1907 Edward Woolhouse set up in business at 58 Eton Wick Road as a cyclemaker and repairer, though there was far more to his business than that. He hired out cycles, particularly to Eton College boys for this was the era of the bicycle. He also made and mended perambulators and many other household items. There is no doubt of his importance in Eton Wick nor his prestige when he became one of the first villagers to own a car, a De Dion. For many years the present Baron's Stores (no 62 Eton Wick Road) was occupied by William Hearn, boot and shoe repairer, saddler and even umbrella maker. Thomas Henry of Inkerman Road, on the other hand was a bespoke shoemaker. Like several other shoemakers in the village, though their names were not recorded in the trade directories, Mr Henry worked for Ganes of Eton and his customers were mainly from the College. About this period in the years before the First World War, Thomas Bond was first advertised as greengrocer of Alma Road; Albert Bond was following the same trade from his home at Ye Olde Cottage. Bert had begun his interest in business long before - while he was still at school - by selling fish to the workmen building the new lock at Boveney. When he left school he took to selling fruit and vegetables from a donkey and cart, promoting himself to a horse and cart as soon as he was able, and selling fish and rabbits as well. He was a familiar figure in the village for well over half a century, and his cart, piled high with clean and polished produce, annually took part in the Windsor Hospital Parade. North of New Town the land not built upon was a market garden known as Home Close and owned by Harry Prior. Albert Borret was a cowkeeper though he lived at Vine Cottage in the Eton Wick Road until he moved to Eton Cottage. Like the farmers he sold milk from a churn, measuring out the quantities into the customers' own jugs.

The Fly-paper Man

The long established shops continued through this forty year period, though the shopkeepers and the types of goods they sold changed. At one time there was a fish and chip shop, a fishmonger's, a confectioner's and Uneedus the draper's. All of these were advertised in the directories; but there were several small businesses that were not. Tinker' Palmer mended pots and pans, and boots and shoes at his home in Prospect Place. Mr Bolton attempted to establish a butcher's shop in Alma Road, but it was not a success. Meat could be bought from one of the grocer's shops when a carcass had been bought from Windsor market, or from one of the travelling horse-drawn shops that came into the village each week. Hendley's high-box type van was a familiar sight each Thursday until the Second World War. It carried all manner of household goods, pots, pans, baskets, tin baths, oil for lamps which were hung outside and inside of the van and piled high on top as it was so laden. Mappin's from Slough delivered cakes; the muffin man and the winkle man came in their seasons and in the summer the fly-paper man, complete with his top hat adorned with a sticky paper ribbon decorated with dead flies. How far he travelled is not known, but his song is remembered in Slough, Chalvey and Windsor: - 'Flies! Flies! Catch 'em alive! His appearance fascinated one small boy in Slough who captured his likeness on a page in his school history book.

After 1895 the launderies were rarely advertised either, though until the end of the 1920s they continued to play an important part in the working life of the village. Before the First World War there were at least five launderies operating. These were cottage launderies employing at the most about eight women as at Mrs Langridge's of Thatch Cottage. Even so not all the workers came from the village. At least a few lived in Dorney. Gradually much of the work done by these launderies was taken over by the College Laundry until there were only those of Mrs Cox and Mrs Miles left. All seem to have ceased by 1930. Many women, however, still took in washing, specialising in the items of clothing that were better hand washed such as jerseys and woollen socks.

In the village two other businesses still in existence, made their beginnings in the first decade of this century. From his home in Inkerman Road Albert Sibley, a shoemaker by trade, began his newspaper agency. It was a part time family affair, the sons collecting the local newspapers from the printer's in Windsor, and carrying them home in a home-made box on wheels. They would then distribute them if it were not too late at night. It became a full-time business when Bill Sibley set up at the corner of Alma Road in the 1940s. Rolley Bond was a smallholder, but he supplemented his income by running a cab service from his home at Palmer Place. He took College boys to the station, sick people to hospital, and regularly each holiday Miss Stearn, the village schoolmistress, to the station. Even before he left school Bob Bond, with his brothers, was helping his father with the horse and trap. Through the 1920s the business expanded to cover road haulage, becoming motorised at the end of the decade; the first advertisement is in the 1931 directory: - R. Bond & Sons, motor haulage and cartage, contractor, sand and ballast merchant. The firm was to flourish in the council building boom of the post war years, and Bob was to become one of the important members of the community. About 1935 he bought Dairy Farm and renovated the old farmhouse, and when Bell Farm no longer served as sewage farm he took over much of the land.

Other names are to be read in the directories of the 1930s - Jack Newall had taken over from Arthur Gregory as blacksmith, Miles & Sons were carpenters and undertakers in The Walk, and Scotty Hood was a coal merchant with premises in Sheepcote Road until the terrible night when his stables caught fire. There was now a chimney sweep, William Neal, and Mr Mumford had opened his butcher's shop at 31 Eton Wick Road (now Kelly's). The 1931 directory listed seven farmers and dairymen in Eton Wick; three of them were Tarrents - Alfred, George and Arthur, tenants of Little Common, Manor and Crown, and Saddocks Farms.

Perseverance House in Alma Road was the depot of the Uxbridge Gas Company. Gas had come to the village lust before the First World War; oil lamps were exchanged for gas mantles in the main rooms, and open fires and cottage ranges could be replaced by gas cookers - though this happened only very slowly. Two - or was it three - gas lamps lit the Eton Wick Road through the village. Electricity did not arrive in the village until the end of the 1930s; like gas, water and main drainage, it was brought into Eton Wick long after it was installed in Eton. Even so not all the houses were converted, several still had only gas in the 1950s, and at least one cottage in Albert Place was still without electricity when it was demolished in 1969. The only artificial light in the bedrooms was candlelight. Piped water did not come to the Boveney part of the village until the late 1920s, and only then after a campaign because the water had become contaminated.

About this time the first bus service reached Eton Wick. That was the Blue Bus which at first was no more than a converted Model H Ford van, seating six passengers and entered by steps at the back. A few years later there was competition from the yellow and brown Marguerite buses to take people to Windsor. This was the era of small bus companies and one man operations with much com-petition between rivals. The Blue Bus van was replaced by a proper bus and for several years in the late twenties and thirties Eton Wick had two bus services . Fares were only 1d and 1½d and the conductor-cum-driver would obligingly set down passengers anywhere along the Eton Wick Road. The Marguerite ceased operating before the end of the thirties, but the Blue Bus driven by Mr Cole continued well into the 1960s when his personal service was replaced by that offered by the national bus companies.

Edward Littleton Vaughan

These forty years while Eton Wick was a separate parish saw many innovations, but perhaps the most lasting has been the Village Hall. It was built by Burfoot and Son in 1906, but the land was the gift of Edward Littleton Vaughan. Known at first as the Eton Wick and Boveney Institute it was opened a year later on 22nd January 'under auspicious circumstances' according to the parish magazine. The opening ceremony was brief but impressive. The large room up-stairs was filled long before the appointed hour with parishioners and visitors'. The Institute, however, was more than just a building, it was a club replacing the old Working Men's Club which had been meeting at Wheatbutts. The new Institute, so it was explained in the speeches and reports of 1907, had been founded 'primarily for men and boys to promote fellowship and to provide whole-some recreation among these. The billiard room, a reading room and a large room suitable for concerts, the boys' room and a bar selling light refreshments and non-alcoholic drinks, all contributed to give the right atmosphere for a successful beginning to the Institute. Before the year was out, however, one note at least of dissension was being heard in the village - the women and girls were expressing their indignation and disappointment at being excluded. By December this had been altered, and the parish magazine was 'pleased to announce the formation of a Women's and Girls' Club, who thanks to the kindness of Mr Vaughan (were) now able to share in the recreation of the Institute'. Girls over thirteen years of age were eligible to become members at the cost of a 1d per week or a 1s per quarter. As well as the weekly social club there were a library, sewing class, fancy work class, gymnastics, dancing and table games.

Mr Vaughan became president of the institute and remained keenly interested in all its 

The Village Hall - 1907

activities; it was not in his character to be merely a figurehead. In 1934 he conveyed the Hall to Trustees for the use of the inhabitants of Eton Wick and Boveney. The first three trustees were all from the College and even today the Bursar by virtue of his office is always a trustee. The day to day running, however, has always been in the hands of a Village Hall Committee and various subcommittees. Over the years the range of activities and rules of the Institute have changed, and even its name as well, to the less formal 'Village Hall and Vaughan Club' , and the Boys' and Girls' Clubs have at times had no leader and had to be closed. Yet throughout the period the Hall seems to have been the social centre of the village. Dances, whist drives, concerts and debates were held there, many of them organised by the Institutes' own clubs and committees. Billiards, table tennis, darts and table games were available to its members; a billiard championship was organised in the 1930s ; Mr Vaughan presented a cup. Toddy' Vaughan, as he was affectionately known was associated with the Wick for over half a century - as president of the Village Hall, as chairman of the Parish Council and as father figure and benefactor. He took a personal interest in many of the sorrows and joys of the village, and many people still remember the help he gave them and the fun they had at his hay teas and cherry parties. It was he who bought Wheatbutts and restored it in the 1920s and who allowed Wheatbutts Field to be used each year for the Horticultural Show. He died in 1940 and the village did honour to his memory with a plaque in the Village Hall. After Mrs Vaughan's death in 1951 a stained glass window was placed in the church; it was her bequest in memory of her late husband

At last Eton Wick had become a real village and not merely a hamlet of Eton. Although it still had many connections with the town and College it had its own church and priest, a chapel, school, village hall, its own nurse and policeman, its own clubs and social life and most of the shops and services for everyday living. It seems a strange paradox then, that at this time when Eton Wick could offer its residents so much more than in any earlier period, that it should be reunited with Eton. In 1934, however, the life of the Eton Wick and Boveney Parish Councils came to an end, and all parts of the village were taken in to the Eton Urban District, while the remainder of Boveney was merged with Dorney Parish. Today Eton Wick is still part of Eton Town Council within the much larger Royal Borough of Windsor and Maidenhead.

This is an extract from The Story of a Village: Eton Wick 1217 to 1977 by Judith Hunter.

Edward Littleton Vaughan - Village Benefactor

Edward L Vaughan

An outstanding benefactor to Eton Wick village, Edward Littleton Vaughan known to everyone as 'Toddy' but not to his face, was an Eton College Classics master. He lived 89 years from 1852 to 1870 and was unmarried until he was 70 years old. He spent most of his life living at Eton, but it was to Eton Wick that he spent his money and constant support.

He was an Eton College boy in Oscar Browning's house between 1865 and 1870 before going to Balliol College, Oxford for 4 years. From there he went to Leipzig University, returning to Eton as a master after 2 years, the year was 1876 and apart from a small break he remained at Eton College until 1919, a spell of 43 years.

Long before this he had become involved with Eton Wick, but for the moment we will stay with `Toddy' at College. After 8 years as an Eton College master, when he was 33 years old, he became a House Master for 29 years, until 1913. In fact, he did not marry until 1921, two years after his retirement at 68 years. His Irish Bride was Miss Dorothea Waller and when he went on his honeymoon to France, he found time to bring back unusual little gifts to all the Eton Wick school children. My sister had a pen or pencil, through which it was possible to see an image of the Eiffel Tower when held to the light, certainly a novelty in 1921.

Willowbrook (off the Slough Road); Eton was his home for the latter years of his life, and it was built for him. From Willowbrook he served as Secretary to the Old Etonian Association; and after the Great War (WWI) he worked with immense industry to compile a record of Old Etonians killed in that war. You may think that is not a big deal; but when we recall that 5,610 Etonians served in the forces in 1914-18, that 1,124 lost their lives (20%) another 1,068 were wounded. 13 gained Victoria crosses; 554 Military Crosses, 407 DSO besides many other awards, we should perhaps pause to acknowledge the work that Toddy undertook in himself acknowledging the price the College paid in human life.

I am sure this is enough of the background of 'Toddy' except to speculate that as is generally believed, the College Masters make their money by being Housemaster; then perhaps Mr Vaughan was particularly blessed with having been a housemaster for 29 years.

His generosity to the village is certainly on record back into the 1880's when he was still quite young and only recently a housemaster. There is no evidence that he lived in the village house so long associated with him – Wheatbutts Cottage. He did however live in Boveney. This was reputably either 'Brookside' or 'Boveney Cottage', probably one and the same.

The year that Edward Littleton Vaughan became housemaster (1884) and was 33 years old, coincided with the immense change at Eton Wick. Until this time Eton Wick ended at and before this, only the Shepherds' Hut public house and two farm cottages in Bell Lane which in fact straddled the village boundary, i.e. in Boveney/Burnham

About this time Mr Vaughan acquired Wheatbutts Cottage and Paddock/Orchard on leasehold and in the following year used the property to benefit the village. It was suggested that he consider himself the Squire of the Wick. This was in 'Etoniana'. It is not really my view, but he earned the title. From 1894-1934 the village had its own Rural Council, and for the first 20 years he was its Chairman. Mostly meetings were held at the Wheatbutts, yet he never lived in the house, Special meetings were held at the new school, when the old ceased to serve as an Institute in 1903 due to redevelopment. The village rifle club met at the Wheatbutts regularly. The District Nurse lived in a Thatched Bungalow at the Wheatbutts field. Tenants of cottage included Teddy Watson, farmer and during WWII (after Toddy's death) David Niven.

In 1919 the owners—Eton Poor Estate—put the property up for sale"– Toddy then bought it.

When young we think everybody aged 50 is very old and cannot ever imagine them ever to have been young (or perhaps less miserable. I am sure that all who remember Mr Vaughan suffer from this; and my memory is of a shortish, smartly dressed man, lame with a stick and perhaps a little bit frightening.

What a terrible pity, because I now know that this short man stood taller than most of us . I was once told that a riding accident had caused the lameness, and although this is generally accepted, there was more to my informants’ story than I have proof of. As a young man, perhaps after his return to College in 1876, he liked to ride his horse over private jumps in the water meadow below Eton Wick Recreation ground of today. This land belonged to Boveney Court Farm and Mr Vaughan was told not to trespass. Being the determined character he always was, he ignored the cautions. One day both Mr Vaughan and his horse were brought down by chains suspended across the jumps. The year and the confirmation of this event I have not been able to prove.

The first mention of his help to the village that I have yet found is 1884, the year he became a housemaster. In March 1884 we read in the Parish Magazine; on Sunday Schools 2 Classes for children of trades people at 2.15 at the Eton Vicarage. At 2pm for young men under the Reverend Norris and at 3pm. For lads by Miss Vaughan ,4pm. For girls over 14 years by Miss Vaughan both held at Mr Vaughan's house in Eton College. Was there a connection here between the Vaughan’s?

 In 1888 the Old School was closed (on the site of Chantlers' Stores at the top of the Walk) after 48 years and a new school was opened in Sheepcote Road. The old building was made available as an Institute and Working Mens' Club the following year for £10 a year rent. It was opened with membership fee of one shilling and two pence or three pence a week charged. There were 46 members at the outset. Mr Vaughan gave a large wall map to the club. It is believed that Mr Vaughan was resolved to see Eton Wick and the Boveney (new one village in

Queen Victoria Jubilee Oak Tree
image courtesy of Google maps

all things. In 1898 he planted the oak tree on The Common to commemorate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. In 1904 the old school was purchased with intent to build a purpose shop on the site for Pratt of Eton for his son. Of course, this disrupted the successful Institute and a committee explored means of building a new premise. Mr Vaughan generously offered to take a long lease on Wheatbutts where an Institute could be built or give a site on his property in the N.E. corner. In October 1905 a meeting held in the school room agreed to the loss of Lammas Rights on the proposed plat next to the allotments. By this time (1905) he was giving annual treats at the school, with pupil entertainment, tea, cakes, crackers and presents all round, at the end Buns, oranges and chocolates.

He gave the land and the very fine Institute to the village, and being on the border of the two villages it was fittingly named Eton Wick and Boveney Institute — now of course , The Village Hall.

The things that he gave were ongoing — every year a Christmas tree; school treats etc. He once claimed to know all the school childrens' names. He was President of three football club and a vice-president of the cricket club. He provided the site for the Scouts but and took a major role in the formation of the scouts and wolf cubs. On occasions he motored the Cubs and Guides to camp and would pay for the poor to go. When the football club won a cup, he gave them all a dinner in the Three Horseshoes pub.

The Horticultural show was always held in his orchard (Wheatbutts) and he usually attended, made a speech, and presented the prizes. The creation of Eton Wick and Boveney Womens Institute and the Library were due to his efforts. Not once, but several times he created a Boy's Club here.

In the mid-1930's, despite being over 80 years he urged a Les Moreley and a Guards sergeant to form another Boy's Club. He often visited himself until in 1937 Les Moreley left to work at the newly built Slough Centre in the Farnham Road.

Dorothea Vaughan

Unfortunately, most youngsters of this era were a bit intimidated by 'Toddy' and tried to avoid playing him at Shove-a‘ penny, Lexicon or draughts. He attended the village church services and always read the lessons. The services came to a halt while he hobbled back to his seat. Eton Wick and Eton College were his two loves until he married and then Dorothea was added to them. We owe him much, the village hall, the magnificent tree on the common, his many kindnesses throughout his adult life and above all his influence on the community.

Dorothea was herself an equally determine lady, and she played an important role in the village. After the war I wrote to her on behalf of the Youth Club — she was President — for permission to sell a vaulting horse and box and other gym items that were no longer used in the hall. Back came a strong letter saying "No" My husband equipped the hall for boys to use, I should see they use it, no excuses, and while I was at it I should use my influence with members to go home and educate younger brothers and sisters not to break fences (Wheatbutts) not to throw rubbish in the stream etc..

On one occasion she attended a meeting of the club (She was terribly deaf in old age) and I reported that I had been asked to represent the club at a National Boys Club meeting to be held at Aylesbury. I could not possibly attend; it was an afternoon in mid-week, and I was working on the Slough Trading estate. She made no indication of having heard a word but imagine my surprise a few weeks later when I was asked who was the frail old lady who found her way to the Aylesbury meeting and gave them all a dressing down for calling an inter club meeting at a time unsuitable for working representatives. She once said to me, I decided to buy all new chairs for the Hall, I told my husband and he replied, "Good I will tell you where to get them". She then said, "No you will not, I am paying, I am Irish and I will have them sent here from Ireland" Those two small examples give some indication of her strong nature. She was president of the Womens Institute at one time. Wheatbutts was left to Dorothea and eventually purchased by Eton College in 1953. Since then, Wheatbutts was occupied by a college master. The field was later sold as a building site around the early 1980's.

An article by Frank Bond

Eton Wick Newsletter: Our Village April 2010

The Making of Eton Wick -  Edward Littleton Vaughan

Among Eton Wick's numerous benefactors were two, both now long since departed, whose work and generosity was exclusively for the community. One was Edward Littleton Vaughan whose unstinting interest and help had such a wide scope, covering the School, Church, Youth, Sports and social activities.

(pictured here in his mid 70s)

It is just 70 years since Mr Vaughan, usually referred to as 'Toddy'; died aged 89 years. Very few today can claim to have known him and those of us who can will only remember him as an elderly, well dressed man, short, stocky and serious, having much difficulty walking around.

Being young ourselves we found it difficult to accept Edward Littleton Vaughan had once himself been young and certainly did not appreciate all he had meant to Eton Wick in the previous five decades.

Annually we saw him at the Eton Wick Horticultural Show (surely 'The Day of the Fair' in those pre WW2 years) whereas President he gave a speech and presented many prizes. We saw him at St. John the Baptist Church where he always read the lessons and even explained the odd passages; we saw him at the Boys' Club where he occasionally 'dropped in' to play one of us at skittles, shove 'a-penny, draughts or Lexicon. Also we met him following Confirmation, when he gave first time communicants a signed copy of the New Testament or Prayer Book. This was not necessarily understanding him, though we did appreciate the respect accorded him, but not all he had meant to Eton Wick.

Let us look at his earlier years. He was born in 1851, educated at Eton College 1865 — 1870 then at Balliol College, Oxford until 1874 and at Leipzig University until 1876. Apart from a short break he returned to Eton College as a Master for the next 43 years. In 1884, when 33 years old, he became a 'College' housemaster; a position he held for 29 years. He retired in 1919 when 68 years old and two years later he married Dorothea. He returned from his honeymoon in France bringing small novelty gifts for each of the girls at Eton Wick School, an unusual pursuit when on honeymoon but typical of his generosity. I have read that at one time he knew all the children by name.

After the Great War he retired from College to spend his married life at 'Willowbrook' in Eton; a home he had built for himself and Dorothea.

At this time he undertook the daunting job of recording the sacrifice of Etonian's in the recent conflict. Of the 5,610 who served in the forces 1,124 were killed and 1,068 were wounded. They had been awarded 13 Victoria Crosses, 554 Military Crosses, 407 Distinguished Service Orders and many other gallantry medals. Medici were commissioned to suitably bind this work for posterity. Of other personal achievements, in 1879 as a 28 year old he climbed the Matterhorn and I was once told his lameness was due to a horse riding accident while going over private jumps in Boveney. He had two houses in the village, Boveney Cottage and Wheatbutts Cottage. He never did live in Wheatbutts but most of his village influence emanated from that house and its orchard, now a housing estate. He first leased the property from the Eton Poor Estate and in 1919 purchased it.

Eton Wick's first school was built in 1840 along the main road at the top of what later became The Walk. In 1888 the building had been outgrown so the school moved to its present site in Sheepcote. It is believed Mr Vaughan had already established a Young Men's and Working Men's Club and it was now able to function more expansively in the original and empty old school building. So much was happening in the village about this time and probably not all was attributed to 'Toddy' but so much was. The village football club was formed in 1889 and he became its President. The cricket club was formed and he was a Vice President. When the football team won a competition he treated them to a meal at 'The Three Horseshoes' public house.

In 1894 Eton Wick had its own Council (until 1934) and 'Toddy' was Chairman for the first 20 years, with most Council meetings being held at his Wheatbutts Cottage. In 1897 he planted an oak tree on the common, close to Wheatbutts, in commemoration of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. For its first 40 years the young oak was protected from grazing cattle by a high iron guard. 'Toddy' also kept a close watch on the tree, which as lads we could testify to. Every November we built a bonfire near the tree and he would ask us not to burn it by being careless. In recent years that grand mature oak was judged as one of the three best trees in the Royal Borough.

In 1903 the old school building was sold for shop development so he made Wheatbutts Cottage available for the Young Men's Club and various other organisations, including The Village Rifle Club and later a Harriers Club. His orchard beside being used annually for the Horticultural Show was now made available for Children's parties with entertainment, bun and orange etc., He then gave the land and cash to build the Eton Wick and Boveney Institute and Vaughan Club. This was opened in 1907 and with extensions over the years we now know it as the Eton Wick Village Hall. He equipped the upstairs room with climbing ropes and vaulting horses for a gym group. In fact the ropes are still there but have been tucked above false ceiling tiles.

His influence bought about the early library; The Women's Institute and a Boy's Club in 1935. He had a major role in the formation of the Eton Wick and Boveney Scouts, Wolf Cubs and Guides in the 1920s and the building of their hutted HQ in Wheatbutts orchard around 1926. On occasions he took Cubs and Guides to their annual camp and reportedly paid for the very poor. In 1905 a public meeting was held in the new school to obtain unanimous approval to free the proposed Institute site of laminas restrictions.

There was so much more to Mr Vaughan. During the Great War he proposed purchasing a boar to service the many privately owned pigs in the village, thereby producing a scarce meat supplement. And so it went on. He died at 89, as did Dorothea 13 years later. She too was a strong, determined lady, carrying on 'Toddy's' village interests and being President of The Women's Institute and the newly formed post WW2 mixed youth club. Following 'Toddy's' death the College Vice Provost wrote "Edward Vaughan had two loyalties, one to Eton College and the other to Eton Wick and both have every reason to revere his memory".

Frank Bond

Click here to read Our Village April 2010.

This article was originally published in the Eton Wick Newsletter - Our Village as is republished with the kind permission of the Eton Wick Village Hall Committee. Click here to go to the Collection page.

Eton Wick Newsletter - Our Village August 2008

In the first newsletter we looked at the old village of Eton Wick which until 1934 had its west boundary at Bell Lane and the east at the Folly Bridge (the slads).  In the early 1920’s this boundary was moved west, enabling Eton Town to develop Somerville Road and that part of South View.  We will leave the late 19th Century extensions of the village west, into what came to be known as Boveney Newtown, until a further issue and will now take a closer look at the old Eton Wick and its development. 

It is believed that the thorough-fare to Eton and Windsor during the middle ages may well have been the old Kings Highway that passes  from our present day Village Hall, along Haywards Mead, continues past Cuckoo Weir (now the Swan Sanctuary) along Meadow Lane to Brocas Street.  This may, or may not be so, but looking closely and accepting the importance of the early farms, it makes sense that the said highway starts from Bell Lane (south) which itself would have been a muddy cart track from Bell Farm, and is joined by the old Sheepcote track that crosses our present road by the church.  This track, now Sheepcote Road, was almost certainly made by the traffic of Saddocks and Manor Farms several hundred years ago. The rutted highway gives us a fair indication of what roads were like all those years ago.  Many of us can remember Sheepcote Road just that, a muddy, gated track in the 1920 – 1930s.  

Thinly populated, Eton Wick had no school; hall; gentry homes or church until 1840, when a school room 29’ x 21’ was built along the Eton Wick Road, on the end of the Greyhound Pub (established 1833) garden.  Remember at this time dwellings along either Common Road or Eton Wick Road often had a small holding/garden stretching as far as the other parallel road.  The Greyhound’s ground being about 100 metres long.  Dr. Judith Hunters’ excellent book tells us ‘The Walk’ derived its name from ‘Deverill’s Walk’, Deverill being the pub landlord and ‘Walk’ on account of the well trod track from the main road to the public house.  It was 1902 before the track, so named, was developed and built along.   It was thought the houses along ‘The Walk’ were the first Eton Wick newly built homes to have piped water installed. 

In 1866 the Village got its first church in St. John the Baptist C of E.  Queen Victoria gave ½ acre of the Crown land of Sheepcote and a £100 donation.  It would be 26 years later before the churchyard was consecrated and the first village burial took place. 

With the sudden influx of children in the newly developed Boveney Newtown (west of Bell Lane) during the 1880’s, it was becoming increasingly difficult for the small school to accommodate them all.  Strictly speaking the children of Boveney were expected to attend a school in the Burnham area but it was not acceptable for them to all trek to Dorney, so it was decided to build a larger school in Sheepcote.  Again, Queen Victoria gave ½ acre and £100 towards the £1,000 the new school would cost.  It opened in 1888.  The girls were expected to complete their education in the village but the boys only attended until 7 years old and then were obliged to attend the Eton Porny School.  Many walked along the unlit; unpathed road four times a day - there was no such thing as school meals, buses, cars and very few cycles.   At that time there were no buildings between the church and Willow Place, apart from the sanatorium.  The first four pairs of houses in South View were not built until after the 1914 – 1918 war when Eton Wick Council had them built as rented homes for returning ex-servicemen.  Perhaps this bold move prompted the Eton Council to ask the village to agree to the boundary move that gave them the area to complete South View beyond the sanatorium and to develop Somerville Road. The name Somerville is derived from the Eton Council’s Chairman’s name, as he had negotiated the land swap with Eton Wick.   

Meanwhile the first school building was used by young men and boys as an institute.  In 1902 this came to an end when shopkeeper, Mr. Pratt of Eton & Windsor, purchased the site and Eton Wick’s first purpose built shop was erected and opened in 1904.  With the Institute closed the village benefactor Mr Vaughan (a Classics Master at Eton College) again came to the rescue and made Wheatbutts Cottage temporarily available.  Meanwhile, he set about freeing a plot of his land from restrictive lammas rights and then donated the plot and paid for The Institute of Eton Wick and Boveney, which is now known as The Village Hall. It was opened in 1907 and has been extended and improved over the years to meet the changing requirements.  Originally the entrance to the hall was on the east side, now used as the library entrance.  It had an equipped gymnasium upstairs and in fact the old climbing ropes will still be in that east facing room on the upper floor, but are concealed by the modern ceiling slats.   

Boys continued to attend Eton Porny School until 1940 when Ragstone Road School took the lads from ‘Porny’ at the age of 11 years. 

Apart from the Boveney Newtown and post World War 2 developments it just leaves the Recreation Grounds that first appeared circa 1904.  We can perhaps look at those in a later issue covering sports and clubs. 

Frank Bond 

Click here to read Our Village August 2008 - the second edition of the Eton Wick Newsletter that this year celebrates its 10th anniversary.

This article was originally published in the Eton Wick Newsletter - Our Village as is republished with the kind permission of the Eton Wick Village Hall Committee. Click here to go to the Collection page.