Showing posts with label River Thames. Show all posts
Showing posts with label River Thames. Show all posts

Saturday, 1 June 2024

A History of Windsor Bridge

Windsor Town Bridge

This is part of the script for the talk History of Local Bridges given by John Denham on 15th April 1998.

Perhaps it should be called the bridge of aggravation. For 900 years the bridge has been plagued with problems which at times has given rise to heated debate between the citizens of Eton and Windsor. 

A Royal presence and officialdom plus the changing moods of the Thames when influenced by the weather have all contributed to the history of the Windsor Town Bridge. 

Invasion by the Normans was not welcomed by many Anglo Saxons who at times could be most unfriendly towards the new rulers. To secure their position after occupying London, a defensive ring comprising of nine forts which became more permanent as castle s was set up. Windsor was one of the nine.

The original fortress built of wood was started in about 1070, The attraction to build on that site, apart from the view of the valley was the fact that they would have the protection with the chalk cliff at their back and the river a barriet from which any frontal attack would have to cross and climb up. The occupants of the fort required military supplies, goods and services giving rise to New Windsor, the tourist town of today. 

At some time during the next hundred years, it became necessary to bridge the river. This may have been for access to the farmland around Eton and Eton Wick or to reach the London-Henley Road for easier and quicker passage to London.

It is known that a bridge existed in 1172, for that year the Kings tax collector, Osbert de Bray, accounted for £4-6s-6d collected from vessels passing under the bridge. 

Over the following years the fate of the bridge depended on its importance to the monarch using the castle.

Being of wooden construction, the early bridge was always in need of repair, perhaps due to collision by passing boats, or debris that built up around the bridge supports, especially when the river was in flood.

It is noted that Henry III gave permission in 1236 for six oaks from the royal forest to be felled to prop up the collapsing bridge and more six years later.

Edward 1st had little interest in the castle or the citizens and allowed the bridge to fall into decay leading to a petition by the ‘Poor Inhabitants' of Windsor for permission to charge tolls for its repair.

Edward had his sights on adding Wales and Scotland to his kingdom and sought a way out of the problem by granting pontage for eight years from 1277, and by charter, appointing the Fraternity of the Holy Trinity, also referred to as the Burgesses of Wyndesore, responsible for the government of Windsor and the upkeep of the bridge. But as is often the case things did not turn out quite as Edward envisaged.

The Brethren soon realized that the bridge was vital to local trade and as a route to London. This knowledge encouraged the Brethren who became quite skilled petitioners, cajoling gifts of trees and pontage grants from successive monarchs every few years.

Only tolls could be charged for traffic over the bridge, the more lucrative collection for vessels passing under the bridge going to the King.

Tolls were based on the cargo and its weight, for instance in 1367 the freight of coal between London and Windsor is noted at 1 shilling per chaldron. A chaldron, a unit of dry measure as for coke coal or lime equal to 32 to 36 bushels, today that would be approximately 56 cu yards (42.8 cubic metres). This toll on a barge carrying maybe 200 tons brought complaints from the watermen at this exaction. 

Because of the unsatisfactory state of the bridge the ferry continued to give a satisfactory if not always reliable service.

Royal Family quarrels in 1387 brought more trouble for the bridge Richard II, who believed in his divine right to rule, was a bad judge of men and his domineering attitude upset many people. When his uncles, the Dukes of Gloucester and York tried to dispose him, he ordered the bridge to be broken down as a defence against his unwelcomed visitors.  

Ten years were to elapse before he made amends with another pontage grant. 

He was disposed in September 1399 and killed in February 1400 aged 33 

James was followed by Henry IV who in 1411 gave two more grants, after which a bridge keeper was appointed at an annual salary of 6s. 8d. 

During this same year the Borough of Windsor carried out repairs to the bridge at its own expense, thereby sowing the seeds for future trouble.

Although housing and business had developed along the road which is now Eton High Street the founding of "the Kings College of Our Lady of Eton beside Windsor", (Eton College) by Henry VI for poor scholars in 1440-1 gave a new importance to the town. 

One of the first advantages given to his college was the free passage over and under the bridge. Two years later Windsor, apparently in accordance with annual custom, elected two bailiffs, and two bridge keepers.

 As the years passed the later Tudors preferred the comforts of Hampton Court Palace to the austerity of Windsor Castle and therefore having no use for the Bridge saw no reason to maintain it. Hence within ten years of the founding of Eton College, the Windsor Chamberlain in 1551 was compelled to sell two silver chalices for £15 to help pay for very urgent repairs to the unsafe structure of the bridge.

The bridge was a dilapidated affair and risking the king’s horses and the heavy waggons with the Royal baggage to the bridge was not an option. Therefore, the rickety state of the bridge may account for King's Stable Street in Eton, where the horses could be stabled and the waggons off loaded to lighter carts or even taken across the river by ferry.

Dr Osborn in his records of Datchet states the magnificent cavalcade of Henry VIII passing from London to Windsor in May 1520 went by way of Eton and Windsor Bridge; but Queen Catherine of Aregon diverged from the route near Colnbrook and crossed at the Datchet ferry. The Datchet ferry was used by Monarchs as a short cut and an inconspicuous back door to the castle.

As stated earlier the bridge was always in need of repair due to the heavy loads crossing on a structure whose supports had poor footings. 

The Windsor Corporation records for 1520 have the entry, 'Andrew Bereman was allowed for Reperacions don Upon the bridge as in pylyng Joistyng Rayleing and other Workmanship as it apperyth by his boke. The account was for £32 0s 5d.’

Toll concessions brought in as little as £5 and we find that the Chamberlain was having to meet regular bills for essential repairs to the wooden structure. Accounts show that charges in 1606 were £25.14s.5d.; 1609 - £5 13s. 10d.; 1612 - £12 19s.

Other charges not connected with repairs to the bridge were brought about by the punishment of wrongdoers. Public whippings were carried out on the bridge and when a new whipping post was needed in 1636, Robert Gill charged 5s. 6d. for supply and fixing thereof. He also charged 6d. for fixing the chain that closed the roadway over the bridge. 

Other fixtures of torture and death required no maintenance such as a tree at the foot of the bridge used in 1536 for the execution of a priest accused of treason, whilst the other a butcher also accused of treason was hung on the new gallows at the end of the drawbridge in front of the Castle gate. 

Throughout the centuries the bridge played its part in Royal Pageantry. 

James 1st had great interest in the pageantry of the Order of the Garter and emulated the custom of his predecessors.

The custom had been in times past for the Knights elect to proceed from London to Windsor in grand procession, in order to be installed.   

Having gathered in the city they thence rode on horseback to Windsor. Accompanying them would be a large party of friends and attendants.

A dazzling sight for those days which brought throngs of citizens to see the colourful cavalcade as it passed. A Duke would be accompanied by sixty horse escort whilst a Marquess would have fifty and so down the line in accordance to the knights degree of seniority.

Some were prone to go over the top in their display of gorgeous apparel with plumes of feathers so James 1st put a limit on the extent of the procession enacting an order that every one of the Knights-companions should have fifty persons to attend him unto the annual solemnities of the order and no more.

The escort of the Earl of Morton proceeding to Windsor is an example that would apply to the 13 Knights of the Garter proceeding to the ceremony.

 Grooms in coats two and two

 Trumpets two and two

 Yeoman two and two

 Gentlemen two and two

 Secretaries

 Stewards

 Gentlemen of the Horse

 Pages

 Four Officers of Arms

 Gentle Usher, bare

 Lancaster Herald, covered

 Earl Morton, supported between two chief lords

 Footmen on each side, in rich coats

 Noblemen and Gentlemen, according to their degrees

On reaching Slough, the procession gathered to place themselves in order to proceed to Eton, thence across the town bridge to the Castle. 

About thirty years on repairs were again required to the bridge structure.

An entry from the Chamberlain’s accounts for the year Michaelmas 1641 to Michaelmas 1642 refers to a payment for 2 loads and 35 foote of Tymber for the pyles belowe the bridge of £3-15-0. 

Again, from the Chamberlain's accounts for the following year Michaelmas 1642 to Michaelmas 1643 there is a charge connected with the military government of the place by Colonel Venn.

The entry reads "layd out for laying downe the bridge by Colonel Venns Appoyntmente.......£6-0-0.

Parliamentary forces occupied the castle on the 28th October 1642. Colonel John Venn, rated number one enemy by many Royalist, was appointed Governor of Windsor Castle. Upon being appointed he gave orders for the defence of the Castle. 

One of the defence measures was replacing several sections of the bridge with drawbridges. Following a report that the Earl of Essex and his levy of London apprentices were marching by Windsor to Newbury orders were given to destroy Windsor Bridge. This only left bridges at Staines and Maidenhead. 

On the 7th of November 1642 the Royalist under the command of Prince Rupert attacked the Castle with five pieces of ordnance firing from the grounds of Eton College, more damage was done to Windsor town than to the stout walls of said castle. The bombardment lasted seven hours but eventually the Royalist withdrew.

At the time the parliamentary army lodged in Windsor was approximately 16,000 foot soldiers and about 3000 horses. The population of Windsor at this time approximately two thousand. Many of these troops would have been encamped in the surrounding villages, whose population would have had to feed and shelter the soldiers and hope they would be paid.

The first Civil war ended in 1646, 

On the 24th of November 1648 the headquarters of the Commonwealth army was transferred from St Albans to Windsor and from then on until the King was taken to London in the January, Windsor was the centre of events.

Having spent Christmas as a prisoner, on January 19th 1649, King Charles was taken from Windsor Castle to board his coach near the Keep.... a guard being made of musket and pike soldiers. At the great gate a party of horse was drawn up in the marketplace at Pease-cod-street end commanded by Colonel Harrison. Harrison's cavalry closed around the coach and with its six horses the coach with its lonely passenger clattered down the hill beneath the Castle walls along the Kings Highway as they called it, then across the old timber bridge into Eton and so over the frost bound roads towards London. By dusk Charles was at St. James Palace.

Having been found guilty he was beheaded on the 30th January on the scahe river Thames.

The hard frost at the end of January 1649 had froze the River Thames again as a disguised boat was secretly borne down the river repeatedly encountering ice flows on the journey from London to Windsor. In the boat was the decapitated body of Charles I who had been beheaded for treason. 

Snow and ice mad it difficult journey and progress was slow. At Chersey the small party was `poled off' ice flows by local fishermen. At Datchet the party were challenged by Parliamentarians, who upon receiving a satisfactory answer allowed them to proceed.  

Under the cover of the flurries of snow all the obstacles were evaded, and the secret hearse moored safely at Windsor whence the coffin was borne to the castle. 

To make good the ravages of war the Council of State in 1649 issued a warrant for the repairs to the bridge. The Surveyor-General of H.M. Woods and Forests issued an order to fell 25 loads of timber from Windsor Forest for the repairs.  

The bridge was replanked, trebled railed and supplied with new piles and a drawbridge.

February 26th 1666, King Charles II visited the castle, having travelled via Staines, crossed the bridge to visit Eton College where he remarked on the names cut into the shuts of the windows by those who had left for Cambridge. His wife remained waiting in the coach.

Whilst staying at Windsor in 1674 Charles II granted double the number of trees for repairs but on being told that that the borough had mended the bridge at its own expense 200 years before -withdrew his offer. 

After allowing Robert Frith £50 for immediate works the corporation set about persuading the king to take a more lenient view of its predecessors' folly and in October 1676 they were rewarded with twenty five loads of timber.

More financial problems followed when the Queen Anne bridge at Datchet was opened in 1706 free of tolls. To this some Windsor council members reacted sharply being as bold to say that the corporation was not twopence better for the Queen's coming to Windsor. Eventually £55 in compensation was awarded to the corporation.

By the March of 1707 the tolls at Windsor had declined and the corporation was relieved to lease the bridge in its ruinous state to John Herring for forty years. His rent was £5 per annum because he had to meet all the cost of repair. Fourteen years later Herring appealed to the Corporation for help, who in turn advised him to petition the treasury for a grant of oaks. Much to his surprise Herring was awarded twenty loads of timber the next year.   

This gift did not relieve him of worries as an increasing number of people were challenging the right of the corporation to charge Tolls.

The situation became serious and with the help of the two Windsor M.P.'s Parliamentary confirmation of Tolls was sought, the said promoted bill receiving Royal Assent on 5th April 1736.

The ownership of the bridge was reaffirmed but the corporation was obliged to repair and maintain the Great Bridge' from the prescribed tolls including 6d. on each barge going up stream.

The new powers resulted in much higher takings, so John Herring's rent was increased to £10 the following year and then to £60 in 1766.

The increased traffic over the old bridge was more than the decayed timbers could take and it was declared not safe for His Majesty's subjects to pass.

The respite from repairs was short for on Saturday July 31st 1773 the council carried out a hurried inspection, the bridge being in so dangerous and bad condition with a great quantity of earth falling into the river, that every load that went over also ran great hazard of falling in.

What work was absolutely necessary was done immediately but on several occasions the bridge was closed for repairs and those crossing had to resort to the ferry.

More repairs must have taken place as it was forty six years on before the corporation applied to build a new bridge.

Perhaps this enthusiasm to build a new bridge resulted from the introduction of mail coaches, one of the first had passed through Slough on its way from Bath to London in 1774. This no doubt stimulated interest in fast passenger coach services to Slough and London from Windsor. By the year 1839 there were as many as 30 stage coaches a day running between Windsor via Eton to Slough. The rivalry between the owners, such as Gray, Moody and Lillywhite was intense.

It is to be wondered if the passengers of those days consider their safety when passing over the bridge?

The family of Lillywhite also farmed at Manor and Crown farms in Eton wick. This increase in frequent fast traffic plus the increasing carrier traffic must have put quite a strain on the bridge structure. 

The year 1775 the Corporation applied to build a new bridge at an estimated cost of £3000, but fearing much higher tolls the people of Windsor objected and the petition was thrown out. 

In a survey of the Thames by Robert Mylne it was noted that Windsor bridge was 165 ft. long with twelve or more spans was much obstructed by rubbish. 

Proposals were put forward included building of the lock at Romney which opened in 1797. This so increased the flow of the river that the bridge foundations were soon undermined.

By 1811 it was a tottering, completely rotten unsafe structure that even the poor residents of Windsor had come to the conclusion that something had to be done and raised no objections when the corporation invited Charles Hollis to submit plans. Thomas Telford was engaged as consulting engineer.

Hollis was an engineer working with Jeffrey Wyatt, the architect engaged on the restoration of the castle.

His submission for the new bridge in 1819 was for three cast iron arches resting on granite piers, and a roadway of gravel laid on cast iron plates.

Estimated cost, for this bridge design of 260ft length and 26ft. wide were £13,000 for erecting toll houses, the bridge and completing the roads. Purchase of premises on either side of the approaches, £2,500, expenses of obtaining the Act £500- total cost £16,000 If built on the same line as the existing route it could be opened in two years. 

Based on this estimate the corporation borrowed up to £16,000 by mortgaging the tolls. 

The wording of Clause 37 of the Act would prove very significant in years to come. The Act stated quite clearly that the toll income could only be used for the upkeep of the bridge, payment of loan interest and repayment of the loan and for no other purpose.

The provisions of the loan allowed the corporation to complete the bridge in five years, commencing March 21st. 1820. 

Twenty one years was allowed from that date to recover the cost with the provision of another thirty years if necessary.

The purchase of properties for approach roads and the removal of the old bridge took longer that estimated.

On 10th. July 1822 the new corner stone was laid by Frederick, Duke of York. The work proceeded steadily the two side spans of 43ft and 55ft. taking twenty three months.

During this time the citizens of Windsor and Eton as well as other travellers had to endure the inconvenience of the ferry of which they became thoroughly weary.

Because of the never ending complaints the corporation called a meeting on March 31st, 1824, with the two iron masters, Mr Baldock and Mr Fowler, to explain the delay.

At length the iron founders explained that the ribs had to cast in Wales, shipped to London, and transported overland to Windsor. 

A promise of delivery of the final rib during the first week of April was not met, the rib did not arrive until the 12th April. Disaster struck during the unloading at Windsor and the rib got broken. This raised the anger of the councillors and Fowler undertook to recast the rib in his London foundry and return it to the bridge site within three weeks, which he successfully achieved.

The new bridge opened on June 1st 1824 and the Windsor and Eton Express wrote, ` Any ceremony of splendour was considered unnecessary and therefore the Mayor and Corporation, having gathered at the nearby Swan Inn, walked in procession about noon accompanied with other senior officials, the Architect and the bridge Contractor to the centre of the bridge.

The toll gate was then closed behind the party and the Architect handed the silver key to the Mayor for him to open the gate.

The bridge was declared open by the Town Clerk and after three cheers the party returned to the Swan where lunch was taken. Tolls were levied from the next day and so began a new chapter in the troubled life of Windsor Bridge. This, the first iron bridge over the Thames, would be the centre of much legal argument over the next seventy three years. 

Twenty fours years on the bridge was to lose some of its importance as the Great Western and the London South Western Railway Companies brought their services to Windsor.

The Stagecoach companies went out of business as citizens turned to the speed of the trains although some struggled on with horse bus services to Slough and outlying districts. and perhaps the stage coach service from Windsor to Brighton which plied on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday returning the following the following day survived for a while.

The pricing of tolls for crossing this Great Bridge had one anomaly in so much it was cheaper to cross alive than dead. It cost only 2d. to cross in a hackney carriage but 6s. 8d. in a hearse.

During 1895 the corporation erected a new tollgate much to the dissatisfaction of Eton residents especially Mr Joseph Taylor.

Mr Joseph Taylor of Eton commenced a campaign to abolish the system under which `tolls were being taken for a timber bridge since passed away, on a stone bridge built and paid for by the public of today'.

Signing himself `Don Quixote' with a letter to the Windsor and Eton Express on 3rd September 1895, Mr Taylor demanded to know by what right the corporation continued to charge tolls asserting that perhaps no right existed if this was so, then more than £12,000 had been collected. illegally over the last 23 years.

He maintained that the Act of 1736 authorizing a table of tolls had been repealed by the act of 1820 which expired in 1872. To force the issue he informed the Town Clerk that on Tuesday 30th September he would drive onto the bridge and refuse to pay the toll. 

A resolution passed at a meeting of the corporation on 27th September ordering the collector to insist on payment and close the gate against anyone who refused to pay the requisite toll. Mr Taylor was sent a copy of the resolution who wrote to the Chief Constable of Buckinghamshire inviting him to send a police officer on the appointed day to witness the illegal closing of the bridge. 

 An Inspector and sergeant were sent, Mr Taylor upon arriving at the bridge asked to see the table of tolls and was shown the schedule of charges from the 1736 Act not those which has been in use for the previous twenty years. Mr Taylor refused to pay, where upon the gate was locked and he was forced to drive the long way home.

Taylor took counsel advice and was advised by Mr J. Witt and Mr W.Dankwerts that he was in his rights not to pay the toll. To give strength to his belief he and his friend, Mr Cecil Howlett drove over the bridge and paid the 2d. toll and obtained a receipt. Taylor then applied for a writ to recover what he contended was an unlawful levy and also applied for a writ to restrain the corporation from barring the bridge.

The Windsor and Eton Express dated 21st September 1895 published a letter headed `Barring of the Bridge' in which he gave guidance to those from whom tolls were demanded by the corporation for passage over the bridge. Another letter from an Eton resident referred to the dilapidated state of the bridge which needed cleaning and painting in spite of the corporation having benefitted from £500 a year tolls.

The case was heard in the Queens Bench on 13-14 May 1897,the Lord Chief Justice giving judgement to the corporation with cost but adding that this peculiar case would no doubt go to the Court of Appeal. The Corporation felt their victory worth celebrating and the Mayor gave the corporation a champagne lunch. Mr Taylor did not give in easily and immediately lodged notice of appeal. 

In October 1897 Lords Justices Rigby, Smith, and Hen Collins after listening to the case for another two days and reserving judgement. 

On November 8th with an unanimous decision they announced that the bridge tolls were illegal and must cease at once, Taylor was awarded cost. At mid-day the collector on the bridge received a telegram ordering him to stop the charging of tolls. This decision was not to the corporations liking and they took the case to the House of Lords.

The hearing before the Lord Chancellor and others began on the 25th November 1898, ending three days later with a verdict in favour of Mr Taylor. 

The toll gates were removed on December 1st 1898. 

The toll collectors cottage remains part of the Old House Hotel.

A poem written at the time of the lifting of the toll convey the feelings of the citizens.


The task is o'er, the work is done

The gate is lost, the bridge is won!

No Tax or Toll shall the Counties part;

Thus Berks and Bucks unite in the heart;

Windsor and Eton from blight are free,

Joined by the English Gift of Liberty!


After World War I the increasing production of, buses, lorries and cars which opened the way to freedom to visit the places of interest. Windsor with its castle became a magnet for day trippers by car and coach although the majority in the 1930's still arrived by train. 

The rise in car ownership from the 1950's which would become a flood also put more load onto the bridge for which it was designed.

The strain on the structure aggravating the crack in the iron work which was first noticed during an inspection by the county council surveyor in 1938. 

In 1946 a survey of the bridge led to frequent checks to monitor the cracks and to the Windsor Council investigating the possibility of repairing and widening the bridge, but no decision was taken and it was not proceeded with. 

Weight restrictions had been in force for some time, buses being the heaviest vehicles allowed onto the bridge. The cracks had become more prominent in 1969 which resulted in a single line traffic system, but after later inspections in 1970 by the Berks County Council Surveyors department, it was decided at an emergency meeting of the highways committee that the 146 year old bridge would have to close due to the rapid deterioration and the accelerating cracks in the cast iron. 

Over 11,000 vehicles a day used the bridge with the number increasing to 22,000 or more in the summer. This is an annual average of five million vehicles. A sample census for October 1845 at the toll gate on the Slough Road, gave a figure of 649,411 persons for a full year with an additional 35,000 for Ascot week. The design of the bridge was well within the limits for this traffic and the sound construction allowed it to carry the increasing traffic volumes for 146 years.

It was fortunate that in 1966 the Windsor - Eton relief road had been opened. The decision to close the bridge was not accepted readily by all. Eton and Eton Wick protested strongly and called for a new Windsor bridge to be built. 

A public meeting held at the Eton Wick village hall on Monday 5th October 1970 when nearly 200 villagers attended to vote overwhelmingly to send a deputation to Shire Hall Reading to lobby the Berkshire County Council for a new bridge.

A committee was formed by Mrs Florence Wilson, President of the Womens Institute, to organise a lobbying party. Nearly 40 people agreed to go to Shire Hall to confront the County Council. The Highways Committee recommended that the bridge should be rebuilt, but the planning committee recommended that the bridge should be closed permanently. 

Bucks County Council had offered £250,000 to the cost of a new bridge, Eton - Eton Wick came under Bucks County Council in 1970.

The Eton U.D.C. held the meeting to tell the village what action had been taken since the closure of the bridge. A questionnaire at the time showed that Eton Wick was in favour of having the bridge re-opened or putting a Bailey bridge across as a temporary solution. 

Mr Glibbon, who was Chairman of the Council, told the meeting that even if a temporary bridge was not possible, the thing that must be achieved was the reopening of the bridge as a matter of absolute urgency to the people of Eton and Eton Wick.

The feeling at the time was that the only people to benefit from the closure of the bridge were the people of Eton High Street, but the closure did effect trade in the high street. 

Private enterprise, suicides, romance, and Hell's Angels have all had their moments on or in sight of the bridge.

September 1730 Daniel Beaumont a starch maker by trade thought it would be profitable to sell wine from a ship moored on the Eton side of the bridge. This was frowned upon by the college authorities as it was feared it would entice the scholars to spend their time in idleness aboard the vessel. As he had no licence to retail the liquor his enterprise was short live for three years later he was petitioning against nine years in jail.

The new town bridge was the scene of a fatal accident due to a hard frost. A sixteen year old boy carter from Ascot leading his team pulling a heavy waggon across the bridge.....slipped and fell under the waggon wheels and was fatally crushed under the wheels.

Decoration of the bridge for royal occasions has featured archways for Queen Victoria's Jubilee of 1887 and 1897. 

The years spanning the world wars brought many tired marching feet over the bridge as troops from the barracks came to the end of those route marches. Added to these was the heavy military transport all putting strain of the cracked iron beams. Apparently one military incident did close the bridge for a short time during the war. 

A soldier driving a heavy transporter loaded with a battle tank having negotiated Eton High Street only to have the road collapse beneath the wheels as the transported approached the bridge. With little room to manoeuvre the long vehicle at that juncture, a lengthy hold up occurred in the high street. It took a several hours to extricate the exceptional load from its predicament. Rumour at the time was that he had gone that way to see a girlfriend in Brocas Street, If so the soldier must have been a little red faced.

A suggestion in 1946 by a correspondent to the Windsor & Eton Express that a permanent arch should be erected on the bridge similar to the Victorian arch as a gateway to the Royal Borough received no official support. 

Marathon race Windsor to London 1904 one of many sporting activities that have passed over the bridge.

The proclamation of George V as King in 1910 was a little upsetting for the loyal citizens of Eton when the Mayor of Windsor crossed the bridge to the Buckinghamshire side to announce the new monarch. To the fore were the Provost and Fellows of the College whilst the Chairman and members of Eton Urban were ignored. There was probably a reason but I have found none.

George V passed through Eton and over the bridge on his way to the Castle after his coronation in 1911.

And do you remember among the many other activities passing over the bridge?

Hell's Angels in their leathers and powerful motorbikes that roared across the bridge to meet at the Cellar cafe on the Windsor side of the bridge where the chairs and tables were chained to the floor and often fights took place. 

The bridge has suffered more indignity being now, unsafe for pedestrians to use the whole width of the structure. 

The other two bridges within Eton are Barnes Pool also known as Baldwins Bridge and Beggars Bridge at the Junction of Pocock’s lane both with a Norman History. 

There is further information about the Windsor Town Bridge on the Thamesweb site.


Monday, 13 June 2022

From the Parish Magazine - Eton Wick History Group Meeting - Archaeological History and Finds of Eton College's Rowing Lake


On the 13th of August and 10th of September the Group explored the archaeological history and finds of Eton College's Rowing Lake site. Approximately 45 enthusiasts visited the site itself in August, meeting at the newly formed information Centre at Boveney Court Farmyard to commence with a short explanatory talk, given by Mr. Tim Allen of the Oxford Archaeological Unit, and then transferring by minibus and cars to be conducted around the site by Mr. Allen: subsequently returning to the farm to examine various finds. This was the end of the archaeologists third summer of excavation there and they have examined two-thirds of the Rowing Lake project area. The remaining third will continue in agricultural use until after the year 2000, by which time it is hoped that half of the rowing course will have been dug and the main contractors will then be ready to clear remaining land to enable the archaeologists, with the help of students and school-leavers to check it out before the final 1200m of lake is excavated. Our site visit had to be drawn, reluctantly to a close when the light failed, and we were treated to a beautiful sunset.

The finds have been numerous, some very exciting, and Mr. Allen's enthusiasm was most infectious, so there was a very good turnout when he came to give a talk to the Group on the 10th of September. He illustrated it with many photographic slides depicting not only some of the fascinating finds, but also explanatory maps and diagrams to enable us to pinpoint their precise locations. Mr. Allen explained that the archaeologists' first step had been to fly over the site and examine crop marks, areas which remained wet when others were parched, mounds etc. Crop marks in the area showed the site of Roman and Iron Age enclosures and Bronze age burial mounds and wet areas proved that the Thames had previously meandered down a different channel. In 1993 they thought that anything of interest would be found on dry ground (magnetic and electrical resistance tests don't works when the area is wet) but, in 1994 they dug trenches in the wet areas and soon found a large Mesolithic (8000-4000 BC) site they found 35,000 flint tools in an area of 50m. A hearth and some pottery were dated at 4000 years old and vertical posts which were probably bridge supports proved that the major channel of the Thames flowed through the project site until some 2000 years ago evidence of two bridges was found in 1995 and a further four in 1996 - one bridge dated from 1400 - 1300 BC and another from 800 - 400 BC (even remains of a beaver-lodge were found, complete with dead beaver). Until about 300 AD the channel continued around the south side of Eton Wick where the Neolithic enclosure was found in South Field: in fact, there were enclosures at each end of the original channel. 

The remains of beetles, snails, plants, and pollen in the peat have enabled the archaeologists to reconstruct a complete environmental history of the Rowing Lake site: how 6,000 years ago it would have been completely wooded and then gradually the land was cleared. Large groups of people lived there in Neolithic times they were the earliest farmers in Britain and thousands of flints, pottery and animal bones dating back 6,000 years were carefully excavated; pots were round-bottomed which indicated they were from the continent and had been brought by the first settlers in Britain; quern stones were found and they would have been Roman, as would have been the remains of a cart and Roman pots. 

There were two Bronze Age barrows circular ditches generally with burials in the centre: a number of skeletons - there had been 7 cremations in and around the East barrow alone and inhumation burials (normally laid on their side and with their knees tucked up under their chins) of an 18 year old woman with a decorated pot dating to 1500 BC, a roan of about 45 and a child of 12; also one skeleton laid on its back which still had an amethyst pendant and could have been Saxon; and then, of course, there was the skeleton, Luke, who dated back at least 2.500 years. There were, too, skeletons of cattle and sheep. Another exciting find was a Bronze Age well, lined with planks the earliest known of in Southern Britain. A coin made in Kent between 100 and 50 BC was found; and another coin dated 210 AD. it is thought that during the Roman Period the area became a low status farmstead site; and the head of an aid (a primitive wood plough) was found it dated back to about 900 BC.

There was, of course, much more; and we look forward to the return of the archaeologists in 2000 or 2001, when we hope there will be more exciting finds to record.

During the 1990's the Parish Magazine of Eton, Eton Wick and Boveney reported on the meetings of the Eton Wick History Group. A member of the audience took shorthand notes in the darkened hall. This article was published in the October edition of 1997.

Wednesday, 5 January 2022

Old Days of Eton Parish - The Eton Bridges

CHAPTER III

FROM matters connected with the Church we turn for the present to other points of local interest. 

Eton seems to have been always subject to floods, and even at ordinary times the crossing of so many intersecting streams must have made the bridges not merely a con­venience, but in some cases an absolute necessity. The first mention of any of the Eton bridges occurs in a docu­ment called the Hundred Rolls, dated 1274, i.e., 167 years before the College was founded. In this it is stated: "The whole township of Eton from Baldwin Bridge to Windsor Bridge was accustomed to give toll of fuel in vessels and all the royalties appertaining thereto.1" This toll was probably in the form of blocks of wood or faggots cut from the copses in the parish. It was given in aid of the royal revenues, which were much impoverished in the time of the Crusades. Baldwin Bridge, for it was originally called, is again mentioned in the Founder's plans for the College.

1.         This was probably the earliest of the bridges and was naturally required to connect the town with its farms and woods in other parts of the parish.

At an early period several houses seem to have sprung up along Baldwin Shore,some of them of a substantial size, and from thence they extended along the right side or the long walk' to what is now Savile House in Weston's Yard.

Who Baldwin was is unknown, but it may be presumed that he was founder of the bridge and its endowment.

It is not called Barns Pool Bridge till the latter part of the sixteenth century. Barns Pool may have been a landing wharf. It has been suggested that it was so named from the barns in which goods were stored.

In Queen Elizabeth's reign steps were taken to secure, for the maintenance of the bridge, the title to certain property, consisting of a house adjoining the bridge, and other land. This, in 1592, was conveyed to thirteen Feoffees or Trustees, being inhabitants of Eton, "for erecting or repairing and from time to time amending and maintaining for ever the said bridge."

By the terms of the trust, the Feoffees are empowered, after spending what is necessary on this purpose, to bestow the remainder "in such ways as seem to be the best, and to the most advantage of the inhabitants and parishioners of Eton."

They are instructed to meet yearly at Pentecost at the Bridge House and appoint two of their number, called the Bridge Master and the Bridge Man, to carry out the objects decided by the majority.

In accordance with these instructions, we are told that in the year 1658 "the bridge called Barnspool Bridge, alias Baldwin Bridge, was pluckt upp and new built." In 1676-9 the house adjoining the bridge is described as the Town House, and the land all round, Town land. A commodious room was built in 1793 for the meeting of the Feoffees, also for the meeting of the inhabitants on the common business of the parish.

In 1687 the last mentioned bridge, which was made of wood, was superseded by one of brick, and in 1884 the present iron bridge was constructed.

By a careful improvement of the Bridge Estate property, its annual value has been considerably increased. In 1676 it was £4 10s; in 1876 it had become £311 10s. 6d., and in 1901 produced a rental of £554 11s., and many persons and institutions have received considerable benefit thereby.

II. In (303 a flood demolished Spitelbrigge, now known as Beggars' Bridge, close to Willowbrook.

In consequence of this an injunction was issued to the Sheriff of Buckingham reciting that the

A History of the
Baldwin's Bridge Trust
by F.I. Wilson
Published 1977

bridge was broken down and destroyed "to the injury of the adjacent country and manifest danger of travellers," and an enquiry was held at Eton, before two commissioners and a jury of twelve persons, to ascertain to whom the duty of repair belonged.

The bridge would seem to have been built about fifty years before by one Walter de Teb, with voluntary gifts collected in the town and neighbourhood, and the commissioners made return upon oath that the said bridge being one half in Eton and the other half in Upton, no obligation lay on the people of Eton to sustain it. It must be rebuilt by begging for contributions. Hence the name it now bears.

III. Long Bridge or Fifteen Arch Bridge is said to have had once fourteen narrow arches of brick, and one central arch of stone. Six of the centre arches were destroyed by flood in 1809 and replaced by three only. The present bridge dates from 1843.

IV. Windsor Bridge perhaps should not properly come into a history of Eton, as it has been always the exclusive property of the Windsor Borough, but for three reasons a short summary of its history can hardly be omitted altogether.

1. The opening of this means of communication with the Castle must have contributed very considerably to the trade and convenience of Eton.

2. Eton must always have helped largely, by the tolls taken from its inhabitants, towards the maintenance of the bridge.

3. The final freeing of this bridge was due to the determined and self-sacrificing efforts of an Eton townsman.

As far as can be ascertained, no bridge existed before the reign of Edward I. Previously to this, communication was by means of ferry. The river was most likely crossed ►se days from what is now River Street on the Clewer side to Meadow Lane in Eton, whence a road ran towards Cippenham, once an important place, and Burnham. On September 18, 1281, King Edward I. granted a charter for a bridge to the Burgesses of 'New Wyndesore,' as the town which had been rising for fifty years under the Castle walls was now called.

This charter carried with it the control and profits of certain waters and fisheries on the Thames, which in later days became the property of Eton College. It also gave the Burgesses the right to take pontage or toll for the upkeep of the bridge.

This latter right was renewed from time to time, and certain other grants were made by Henry VI. in the twenty-third year of his reign, when a new bridge was built.

In the time of the Great Rebellion (1642), which was largely supported by the County of Bucks, the then existing bridge was broken down to hinder the march of the Parliamentary Army.

In 1707 the Burgesses leased the bridge to John Herring, requiring him to repair and renew it whenever needed, but owing to complaints as to the heaviness of the tolls, and the dangerous state of the bridge, an Act was obtained in 1734 for a fixed schedule of tolls, with the power to enforce them and to use them for the purposes of keeping up the bridge. This was renewed in an Act, July 1819, George III., when power was given to build a new bridge of stone and iron, in place of the timber bridges built hitherto, and to continue and levy certain tolls for twenty-one years. This permission was subsequently extended and did not finally come to an end till 1872. Under this Act, tolls were only to be paid by the same vehicle once in the day and were to be diverted to no other purpose or use whatsoever than the necessary expenses of the bridge.

When the right expired in 1872, the Corporation was advised by Counsel, either to go back on the prescriptive right of the first charter, or to apply for a fresh Act of Parliament. They chose to take a course of their own, and adopted a modified scale of charges without applying for an Act, and meanwhile farmed the bridge and made about £500 a year, which was used to the relief of the rates. A few people disputed their claims, but no one was bold enough to oppose them till 1895, when Mr. Joseph Taylor took up the matter, and obtained Counsel's opinion to the effect that the Act of George III. finally destroyed the old prescriptive right.

In September that same year Mr. Taylor drove up to the bridge, and, refusing to pay the toll, it was barred against him.

On January 30, 1896, he renewed his attempt, and paid the demanded toll under protest. This led to a trial at Queen's Bench in May 1897, when the Lord Chief Justice gave judgment in favour of the Corporation.

Just when Windsor was congratulating itself on its victory, it was announced that Mr. Taylor had decided to appeal.

The case came on in the High Court of Appeal in October, and a unanimous judgment was given in favour of Mr. Taylor's contention. Whereupon the Corporation appealed to the House of Lords, and in November 1898 another unanimous judgment was given, and the case was finally won, and the bridge freed from toll for ever.

The bridges not on the high road are as follows: In the Playing Fields Sheep's Bridge, built 1563 to replace one of wood. On the river towing path Bargeman's Bridge and Cuckoo Weir Bridge, both over streams from Cuckoo Weir. Higher up the river at Upper Hope is Long Bray Bridge—and higher still, opposite Eton Wick, Boveney Bridge, which crosses the stream separating Eton from Boveney.

Note 1 Hence, in Lysons' Magna Britannia, 1813, the town is designated ‘Eton Gildables,' or more correctly ‘Geldable,' or liable to tribute, as distinct from some land which was free from taxation.

OLD DAYS OF ETON PARISH by The Rev. John Shephard, M.A. was published in 1908 by Spottiswoode and Co Ltd. The text is has been copied from the original book that is now out of copyright.


 

Monday, 4 October 2021

From the Parish Magazine - Eton Wick History Group Meeting - A History of the River Thames

A report on the May 1996 meeting held at the Village Hall.

Roy Dunstan is a Lock Keeper, at present at Old Windsor, and my word he knows his River Thames, from its source at seven Springs in Gloucestershire to the Estuary. He was the speaker at the May meeting of The Eton Wick History Group and he talked of the changes in the control of the river over the centuries, the various organisations which held jurisdiction over it - from the Mayor of the City of London in the twelfth century right through to today's Environment Agency, with particularly fond mention of the Thames Conservancy. He spoke on the serious subject of pollution and, in contrast we heard about the Lock Keeper's wife at Cliveden - 'Mad Mary' - with her long tweed skirt and wildly swinging legs!

Boveney Lock Keeper
Dave Gibson
Mr Dunstan told us about the early weirs and locks - Boulters was built in 1772 and Bray,Boveney and Old Windsor locks were built during the first half of the 19th century; and he explained how busy the Thames used to be, with barges carrying Witney wool and Cotswold stone down to London; and some of the barges were huge - apparently one weighed 140 tons, and had a crew of six and was towed by twelve horses. In the 17th century over 100,000 tons of cargo was being carried on the Thames - now, of course, we see it used mainly for recreation. In more recent times, one huge barge almost caused a disaster when, in 1992, the unmanned ‘Actief’ (a floating restaurant) broke loose from its mooring and drifted down towards Windsor Bridge - Dave Gibson, the Boveney Lock Keeper saw what had happened, jumped on his bike, overtook the vessel, enlisted the aid of a couple of College staff near Windsor Bridge, and between them they managed to board the boat and make it safe before it could collide with the bridge - unchecked it could have badly damaged the bridge or swung across it, stopping the river's flow and causing flooding to the surrounding area. The heroes received a Norris McWhirter award for their bravery.

Barge horses sometimes had to be swum across the river when the towpaths changed from one bank to the other – a situation often caused by rich riparian land-owns not wanting the towpath (but really the bargees) on their side of the river. These riparian owners also objected to the visitors who wanted to enjoy the Thames when passing through Maidenhead during Ascot Week, but their 'Keep Out' notices merely served to provide bonfire fuel for the visiting city dwellers.

Thanks to the conservators, who have been busy cleaning up the Thames since 1866, the river is now cleaner that it has been for many years and fish have a better chance of survival; salmon have returned and to encourage them further some of the weirs have been fitted with salmon ladders to assist them up stream. The river's flow is now expertly controlled by skilful management.

During the 1990's the Parish Magazine of Eton, Eton Wick and Boveney reported on the meetings of the Eton Wick History Group. A member of the audience took shorthand notes in the darkened hall. This article was published in the June edition of 1996.

Wednesday, 15 August 2018

The Story of Oliver James Stannett in his own word - Part One

I was born on 25th April 1903 at Chertsey in Surrey. Dad worked on the Thames Conservancy repairing the Chertsey lock gates. 

According to my mother, when I was about three years old I was missing for about three hours. Nobody could find me.

There was a large gravel pit at the bottom of the garden. Dad came home and looked around the gravel pit and he said that he found me hanging on to a bush with my feet touching the water. How long I had been there I don't know.

I knew nothing about this until I was sixteen years old. When I asked Mum and Dad why I was so frightened of water they told me what happened at Chertsey.

You see I was a pupil at Eton Porney School, Eton and the class went bathing at Athens which was the Eton College boys' baths. I absolutely refused to go into the water with the boys so the master told some of the boys to throw me in. Some of them managed to do it but I must have kicked up such a fuss that they had to fetch me out. I told Mum about it when I got home and she wrote a note to the master explaining the reason for my behaviour. Anyway, after that I used to sit on the bank and watch them.

I think that (the gravel pit) was the reason why Mum and Dad left Chertsey and moved to Arthur Road in Windsor close to the Gasworks where Dad got a job on the retorts.

I think that I must have been about four years old because they tried to get me into the school at the other end of Arthur Road. St. Michael's it was called but they would not have me at that age.

I was playing in the road one day and a man in plus fours asked me why I was not at school. He was the School Board man. Mum told him. I don't know how he managed it, he only had one arm and rode a bike, but he picked me up put me on his saddle and took me to school. After that Mum took me to school as they agreed to let me go there.

The School Board man used to go to the school and find out who was not there. Then he would go round to their homes and take them to school. Nobody liked him. He was still around during the 1914 - 18 war when I saw him last. Dods I think his name was.

All that I did at school was to play with sand on a tray, trying to make sand castles etc. I got fed-up with this so I decided not to go to school. Across the road from us where two roads met there was a sweet shop that had three steps going up to the shop door which I hid behind until the School Board man had been and gone.

Anyway I left my hiding-place and went home. Mum 'created' at me for not going and offered me a farthing to get a liquorice long stick which was a foot long and half an inch wide. These, 1/2d Caliboncas and Port Wine toffee were all the sweets we ever got. I must have gone to school because I remember sitting in the classroom with paper and pencil. I think it was then that Mum and Dad moved to the other end of the road close to the school.

It was a square of houses built together and the only way that you could get into the square was through an archway in the middle of each side.

It was supposed to be a playground for kiddies but it was all gravel. The Church Army Band played there on Sundays. Dad grew flowers there. It was not big enough for veg. and he had several rabbit hutches there. The rabbits were white with pink eyes and the flowers were all colours.

I became interested in the sticks stuck in each plant with a flowerpot with straw put in it. Of course, I had to go and look. While I was doing that I had left the rabbit hutch door open and they were out into the garden! One good point was that they could not get out of the garden and Dad managed to catch them. I had a good talking to so I never touched them again.

Dad was always good to us. He never hit one of us. Not that I know of anyway.

Dad used to chew tobacco. One day I fell over and cut the palm of my hand. Of course it hurt and I yelled. Dad came out. "Let's have a look," he said. He looked at my hand, spat on it and then rubbed it in. “There you are," he said. I do not remember what happened after that.

Then something happened which I have never forgotten when I had toothache in both sides of my face which were swollen like balloons. Mum got a piece of flannel, mixed some vinegar and mustard together into a paste and spread it on my face. The pain went away and it kept me from school but I still had the swelling.

I must have been six years old when I was let out of school early. There was nobody in and I saw a bottle of beer on the kitchen table. I thought I would try it. So I took the bottle into the scullery, took the screw stopper out and had a good swig. Then I realized that it was paraffin! I choked and spluttered gasping for breath. As it happened the next door neighbour heard me and came to help. Mum came in and said, "Wait till your father gets home," but Mum and Dad just laughed their heads off. Dad said, "I think he has learned his lesson. I think he has been punished enough. "I have often thought on the big old fashioned clothes mangle with big rollers that I clung to when trying so hard to breathe. Soon after that we moved to Eton Wick. 

This is an extract from the autobiography written by Oliver James Stannett (1903 - 1988) and republished here with the kind permission of his relatives who still live in Eton Wick.

Monday, 8 June 2015

Eton Wick: The Mortuary.


This picture of the Eton Wick mortuary was taken around 1960 just before it was demolished. It was built in 1913 on the north side of the brook running along Common Road approximately opposite Albert Place, sharing the entrance to the Blacksmith's forge. The occurrence of drownings in the river at that time warranted such a facility; before it was provided the accepted practice was to lay the bodies out in the rear quarters or cellars of public houses, where the subsequent inquest was held. 

An extract from A Photographic History of Eton Wick & Eton

Saturday, 28 March 2015

How a Thames flood was averted in 1992

1992 Flood Disaster only averted by quick action 

Boveney Lock Keeper
Dave Gibson
It was a little after 4 pm on December 7th 1992 when Boveney Lock Keeper Dave Gibson heard a sharp crack as the mooring chains of the 150 ton hotel barge 'ACTIEF', tied up in the weir stream, snapped. The river was high and fast as the great 90 foot boat became swept along in the 6 - 8 knot stream sweeping towards Windsor.

David phoned through the impending danger before cycling along the tow-path to overtake the 'ACTIEF'. This necessitated cycling through the partially flooded bank at 'Athens' before he joined the college boatyard met Paul Cutler, Peter Stevens and John Cork (head). They quickly boarded their motorized punt and hurried upstream to intercept the on-coming boat.

Fortunately for local residents the 'ACTIEF' was stopped just upstream of the 'Queens' Relief Road Bridge when Dave Gibson and John Cork jumped onto the runaway vessel and cast the fore and aft anchors. Meanwhile the river district inspector, Phil Green had contacted the French Brothers Windsor Steamer Co. and together with a team from Bray Steamers also gave chase and assistance.

Had the 'ACTIEF', which in fact can only just get into Boveney Lock, struck ei-ther the Queens' or Windsor Bridge the possible damage and consequent rapid flooding would have been a major local disaster. In 1993 lock keeper Dave Gibson and boatyard head John Cork were awarded the Ross-McWhirter Memorial Award for their resourcefulness and Bravery at a Dinner given at the Middle-Temple Hall, London.

Wednesday, 28 January 2015

Memories of the Thames


Memories of the Thames, from guestbook entries.



I went with my mates over to the lock on the Thames and we opened and closed the lock gates for a thrupenny bit a time from the boaters.

Russell Haggerty,
19 September 2010

... I have never been back since but I will one day with my daughter to show her the beauty of Eton Wick and the memories I have of spending all my school holidays there... Going down to river to fish all day...

Sharon Pickles (nee Collins)
26 April 2010

Happy memories of skating on the frozen floodwater and even of walking across the frozen Thames just above Windsor Bridge in the cold winter of 1962/63. Bet that will never be possible ever again.

Stephen Moss,
25 May 2007.

Boveney 1940


Where the Thames flows wide and slow around old Boveney reach
Here as a lad I spent my lonely leisure hours.
On the towpath stood the old, tree-encircled church
Where so long ago the bargee's stopped to worship
On they're way downstream to markets in lower towns
Willows weeping green and yellow, leaned from the bank
Hiding the grey heron's favourite fishing place,
Along the bank meadowsweet and tall iris grew
Within the lane wood pigeon cooed in chestnut trees
In the rush bed sat tight the coot on hatching eggs
Water voles burrowed in fern'ed banks along the stream.
Dabchicks played bob hide and seek after fish to eat.
Circles in the stream, told where fish rose for the fly
A family of swans would paddle deep away
The cob, neck arched, wings raised, hissed his fierce defiance
Thrusting against the stream to join his nervous mate
Here I would sit to fish with hazel rod and line,
Feather float, bent pin baited with expectant bread.
Weir stream pike, patient, waited for food in the race,
In those days nothing disturbed our tranquillity
The world occupied with survival and with war.
To manhood I grew, the bugle sounded plane
The river and I would not know such peace again.


Arthur Mylam 
23 October 2008



If you have any memories of time spend on or around the Thames at Eton Wick, let us know by sending a message from the Guestbook page.

Saturday, 17 January 2015

The 1947 Flood

Memories of the 1947 Flood and the plight of the families living in the disused wartime army camp at Dorney

by Mr E. Wilks

The winter of 1946-47 had been one of the worst winters on record. It was estimated that the ground was frozen to a depth of almost 3ft, and when the thaw came the water, instead of soaking into the ground, ran straight into the river.
I went out to see how high the water was but there was no hope of getting to work. The water was almost half way up Tilstone Avenue. I went up to the Eton Wick Road and the water had crossed the road and was flowing down Moore's Lane into the lower part of Eton Wick. Men had already started to build a bridge, making buttresses of kerbstone taken from the building site for the new houses on Tilstone fields. A few more men had fetched scaffold
boards from the building site and laid them across the buttresses to make a substantial bridge.

We went to bed on the Saturday night thinking that the flood was at its worst. I was happily having a lay-in on the Sunday morning when there was a loud bang on the front door - outside there were a group of men. I asked them what they wanted and one of them called out "get your boat and help to get the people out of the common camp". I did not want to go - it was a new boat that I had been making in readiness for the summer. It was just forms and slats covered with fine canvas, with several coats of paint, inside and out. The last coat had on only been finished a few days before; it had never been in the water and I did not know if I could manage it. It was no use protesting - by the time I was dressed they had opened my garage and were off down the road with my boat, so I picked up the double paddle and followed them.

As we approached the common gates, I could see the water rushing out of the Camp over the road, I was really frightened. Then, as I reached the Common gate and looked inside the camp, I saw this galvanised bungalow bath coming through the flood. A woman was sitting in it holding grimly to the sides, and wading almost waist deep in the icy water the man we called 'Mad Jack'. As he came up the road, willing hands helped the woman out of the bath and as Jack staggered out of the water I felt ashamed of myself. Now that I was there some one took Jack away for a hot bath and dry clothes. I don't know how many people Jack had rescued before I arrived but I was glad to release him.

A policeman who was just standing there doing nothing told me "I'll leave you to get on with it - I want the men to come with me, there are some pigs to rescue at one of the farms" and nearly every body left. My boat, although it was constructed like a Kayak, I had made it much wider as I intended to take the family picnicking in the coming summers. This makes it almost impossible to paddle sitting down in the boat so I had a seat on the deck and sat with my feet in the cockpit, which left the large cockpit free for any passengers.

I pushed off and struggled against the swirling waters, learning how to manage the boat as I went along. Luckily, most of the wire fences were down, it was just the posts I had to miss. Reaching the first hut I pulled up to the hut windows and the people climbed out into the boat. The fierce flow of the flood water made it difficult to get into the shallow by the Common gate, and after the first rescue I had to come back through the gardens and steer around any obstructions - hard work with a loaded boat.

In the next hut was a family with a young boy and a sick baby who was in a pram standing on a bed out of the water which was lapping the top of the bed as this hut was in one of the deepest parts of the flood. I talked it over with the husband and, as the boat had a large cockpit, decided to put the pram in the boat. The wife did not approve. As they were arguing I lost my grip on the window, and by the time I had the boat under control and returned to the window the wife was almost in hysterics, crying and saying I would drown her baby.

I was about to leave and go to the next hut when the husband took the baby out of the pram, wrapped it in a blanket and then put it In his wife's arms. We told the boy to lean out of the window and help by holding the front of the boat then, after a struggle, we managed to fit the pram into the cockpit. I was lucky, there was still some room for me to keep my feet in the boat. However, the drama was not yet over, the wife hugged the baby to her and refused to let go. I was just wondering how much longer I could hold on, when the man slapped his wife's face and took the baby from her, then quickly put It In the pram. I called out to the boy to let go and although it was now all top weight, the boat behaved perfectly and I got the baby safely back to the Common gate. I must note here that I became friendly with this family and I am sure that was the only time that he ever hit his wife. The baby made a full recovery.

I got the rest of the people safely to dry land, but by this time I was so tired I was working in a daze. I cannot remember any details of those last trips. I asked the bystanders to bring my boat home and wandered home to a hot bath and bed, being too tired to eat any dinner. Later I dressed and came downstairs for a meal when there was another knock on the front door. The wife told the people that I was not fit to turn out again but as they were friends I went.

There was an unhappy story behind this request: the husband was due for demob on the Saturday and his wife, with the help of her family, had prepared a hut in the army camp for his homecoming. They had even erected dividing partitions, then furnished it with all new goods. The wife had gone to London to meet him to celebrate his homecoming by going to a show. When they returned to Eton Wick late that night, the Camp was under water. They wanted to collect items of clothing and other odds and ends.

I took the two women to the hut and their husbands waited by the gate to help on our return. We were all in our wellies and I had remembered a rope with which to tie up the boat. It was pathetic, the carpets and things floating about in the dirty water. We stood as many things as possible out of the water, mostly on the bed and table, hoping for the best as the water was still rising.

We loaded up and I started back but my arm was like lead and I was having a struggle to steer the boat. We were nearly safe when I saw an angle iron fence post in front of me. I was just too tired and the fast current took me straight on to it and a hole was ripped in the canvas at the front of the boat. I jumped out and lifted the front of the boat out of the water and waded to the dry land, luckily for me I was In shallow water and only got a little water In my wellies.

I left my friends to return my boat and staggered home to another hot bath and bed. On the next day I could hardly move, I could not even feed myself but the use gradually came back to my limbs and by the end of the week I was my old self again. When I look back, the one thing I remember most vividly about the flood - a frightened woman sitting in a tin bath being steered through the icy, swirling water by 'Mad Jack'.